In an ideal world we’d build our models with no problems whatsoever. Perfect nub removal, perfect fit, perfect paint job, perfect finish. Sadly, we do not live in an ideal world. We live in this one. And in this world, shit happens. Screwing up nub removal happens. Bad fit happens. Broken pegs happen. Mistakes happen.

And while mistakes suck, they are also a great learning experience. Having to fix something you did wrong will teach you much more than doing something right 10 times.

Broken pegs became a pretty hot topic after the release of MG Freedom 2.0 due to its infamous hip joints. And while I managed to complete Freedom 2.0 without a broken hip joint, the curse caught up with me during my custom Barbatos build.

Fixing broken pegs

My first thought? “Cool, now I can learn how to fix it!”. As always, let’s start with materials we’ll need:

  • A broken peg (obviously).
  • Wire cutters (never use your plastic nippers with brass rods and other metal elements)
  • Pin vise (don’t use Dremel for this)
  • Flat file (optional, but useful)
  • Brass rods
  • Plastic cement
  • CA glue
  • (Optional) 2-part epoxy glue.

Pegs are usually load-bearing parts. If we simply try to glue them back together, they’ll most likely snap right off next time we handle the kit. For a proper fix, we’ll have to reinforce the part with brass rod.


The fix

First off, if possible, we glue the broken part back together using plastic cement. Make sure it’s attached properly and that the peg is straight.

It’ll make following steps much easier.

Give the glue some time to cure. Next up we drill through the part, trying to stick to the center. Starting with smaller drill first will make it a bit easier.

You won’t always be able to drill clear through – for example if peg you want to fix is a part of armor panel. It’s fine, just go as far as you can.

Now it’s time to add the brass rod, preferably same size as the drill we used. Before inserting it, we can apply 1-2 drops of CA glue to help it stay in place.

All that’s left to do is to cut off the excess rod and file down the leftovers until it’s level with the part.

As an extra step, we can add a bit of CA glue on both ends and around the bit we glued back on. Apply activator / filler if you have any. If not, just leave it until it’s dry. 2-part epoxy glue is a good alternative.

All done.

This method should work for most pegs, including ball joints. If you’re having trouble, feel free to ask a question in the comments or on my Facebook page.


Fixed hips are holding strong.

2 Responses

  1. Calvin says:

    May I ask what are the sizes for the brass rods and drill head? (in a unit of millimeters)

    • Blaze says:

      We already talked on FB, but for anyone else interested – it was 1.6mm, though depending on the size of the peg, you might need to go smaller.

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